from Pro Alpinist and Mountain Guide Fabrizio Zangrilli who’s joining forces with Aspen Expeditions Worldwide
Mt. Kenya, Batian, 5199m, Aug 26-27, 2013
“The south west face of Mt. Kenya has been a dream climb of mine, and most other ice climbers who dream of climbing ice ribbons in exotic locations. My partner, Brian, and I were very lucky the Ice Window route was in climbable condition, and managed to ascend the 1200 meter wall in a day, enjoyed a great night sleeping on a big ledge in the Gates of the Mist – just a few rope lengths from the summit, and summited and descended the following day.
This was one of the most fun and big 12 day adventures I have had in a while. It was my first time in Kenya, and certainly not my last! The climbing was fun, many sections in great, easy condition combined with a bit of rock climbing and a stretch of mixed climbing here and there. The trekking around Mt. Kenya is not to be missed either, with wonderful days ascending form the African savannah, through the dense and wet forest, to the high alpine passes, all with very few other people. The best part of our trip was our staff, they were the kindest and most helpful team that I have ever worked with!”
Fabrizio is presently in the Himalaya guiding Ama Dablam. Upon his return he looks forward to meeting you this winter for a guided ski, skimo or ice climbing adventure.
A father & son venture up to the high country with one of our guides for a overnight out under stars.
Six adventurous climbers from Atlanta, GA enjoyed a two day climb of the notorious Capitol Peak via the knife-ridge. Aspen Expedition’s guides Todd Reeves, Nate Emerson and Steve Johnson lead three teams to the summit on Sunday, August 11th. Waking to clear skies, the Atlanta crew motivated for a strong ascent. The AE guides were impressed with the teams overall fitness, technical skills, and motivation. Congratulations and we look forward to climbing with you again!
14,ooo’ Peak season is here!… Here are some recent pics of our guide Lindsay Fixmer with Drew on the summit of North Maroon and enjoying the scenery.
Aspen Expeditions Guide, Salomon Athlete, Owner of Straffe Outerwear, top US Ski Mo Racer and all around good guy, Peter Gaston – skis the Otter Body on the Grand Teton! Pete climbed and skied with Kim Havell, Salomon Athlete and first woman to ski the Otter Body and Brian Warren, 7 summits big mountain guide and Jackson Hole Mountain Guide.
In Pete’s own words:
“We skied the Otterbody route May 15th, 2013. Great climbing and skiing conditions. The Chevy, Stettner and Ford offered superb climbing with great snow coverage and minimal ice/rock. We belayed 4 pitches of climbing and summited just before 8am. The ski involved 5 rappels. Steep jump turns down the east face to the choke onto the Otterbody. 1 rappel here with skis on to get from the east face to the Otterbody snowfield. Great corn turns on the Otterbody down and left. Huge exposure here as you are skiing a strip of snow with thousand feet of cliff below. 4 rappels from the Otterbody to the Teapee glacier. Our timing was prety ideal as we had great skiable snow and we were working our way off the Otterbody before snow, ice and rocks began to shed ontop of us from the east face high above. The anchors for the 4 rappels off the Otterbody were not very impressive. A mix of pitons, cams, nuts and some old rope. We backed a couple of them up, but they are in need of replacement. Especially since I know this route was guided a time or two this spring.”
Impressive work and great send Pete!
lots of big raps..